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Gucci dreams of magical sunsets at Milan Fashion Week

By Thomson Reuters Sep 20, 2024 | 10:56 AM

By Elisa Anzolin and Marie-Louise Gumuchian

MILAN (Reuters) – Gucci sought to recreate the magic of summer sunsets at Milan Fashion Week on Friday with a colourful line that at times nodded to the 1960s.

Creative director Sabato De Sarno began the show for his spring/summer 2025 collection, called “Casual grandeur”, with a tailored zipped jacket and floor-length trousers slit at the front bottom, opening up over sneakers.

Models wore draped or sleeveless dresses in various colours adorned with golden buckles as well as see-through lace frocks.

There were looks that mirrored 1960s styles with short A-line skirts, structured jackets and shorts. Long coats were worn over tank tops and long denim trousers. Some coats were adorned with sparkling fringes.

Models walked down a red catwalk with lighting ranging from white to warmer shades, nodding to the “moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day”, De Sarno said in show notes.

“It’s the moment we find ourselves. This collection is a tribute to those moments, and an invitation to stop, seek your own moment,” he said, as the show drew Oscar winner Jessica Chastain and Italian tennis star and world No. 1 Jannik Sinner among celebrity guests.

Accessories included large summer hats, an array of handbags and footwear that varied from loafers and boots to platforms with transparent heels.

De Sarno’s colour palette included grey, brown, different shades of green, white, orange and red.

De Sarno, who presented his first Gucci show a year ago, has been resetting the Italian luxury brand with his sleek, pared-back creations since taking over from former designer Alessandro Michele, known for his eclectic, gender-neutral styles.

“A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction,” De Sarno said.

Gucci is the largest brand at Kering where it accounts for half of the French luxury group’s sales.

In July, Kering reported a bigger-than-expected drop in second-quarter sales and forecast a weak second half, as the group works to re-energise Gucci while facing subdued demand from Chinese shoppers.

(Reporting by Elisa Anzolin and Marie-Louise Gumuchian; Editing by Susan Fenton)