Saint Laurent reins in volumes with sheer, fitted looks at Paris Fashion Week

By Thomson Reuters Feb 27, 2024 | 5:18 PM

By Mimosa Spencer

PARIS (Reuters) – Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello trimmed down the label’s silhouettes for winter, tightly wrapping models in sheer silk dresses in muted colours for a runway show on Tuesday.

Models cut through the centre of the set — two vast, circular rooms lined with green curtains — in towering sling-back heels, their transparent layers revealing high waisted underwear, cut sharply, lengthening the thighs, and accented with slim belts.

There were sleeveless tops that wound up around the neck, pussy bow blouses and bustiers, while skirts remained the same length — cut just below the knees.

“The length is classic, but the content is novel,” said the show notes, tucked in envelopes left on each seat. They also cited the famous “naked” gown worn by Marilyn Monroe, as a reference for the designer.

Adding contrast to the fitted looks were furry coats made of ultralight feathers, forming bulkier silhouettes.

The collection was “bursting with juxtaposition,” said Simon Longland, director of buying at the London department store Harrods, noting “ladylike and conservative” styling delivered, however, a “slinky” allure.

Paris Fashion Week runs through March 5, with upcoming shows from Chanel, Hermes, Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton.

(Reporting by Mimosa Spencer; Editing by Sandra Maler)